A lovely quiet night. That quiet I couldn’t sleep. This morning we went up the mountain because I’d read about Petroglifs in the rocks from 4000 years ago. They must have been spectacular in their day and still prominent even with the weathering that effects the soft stone.
We walked along the Sea Rd to get back to Muros rather than the mountain Rd. It really is a beautiful coastline and hopefully one day I will walk it.
After getting in Santiago, we checked out our room before going for our Compostela. It was only 5pm ans told all the ticket numbers had gone???
We have to go back in the morning. Along with 500 Spanish young people who have walked from Saria. I might make my own if I don’t get a number when I go to church in the morning.
I think this is the end of our Inglese for the year. Next year we have the Primitivo and Norte to do.
What a fantastic night, no snoring, complete blackness and comfy bed. The best night sleep I’ve had for €6 each.
We were soon on or way and went back to the little cafe before we arrive in Bruma. It is run by 2 ladies who look after their pilgrims. Her we met Ursela from Kilder in Ireland. She doesn’t know were she is going or when. She was a very intriguing lady and taking a couple of years out of work. Later we’re met another pilgrim from Australia, who is part of the Confraternity of St James and has worked in Rabanal. He too has taken early retirement. We decided because there wasn’t gap years when we were younger, that we are taking a gap year from work before we retire.
We are a day early in Seguiero and we managed to change the night for an extra €5 so it’s cost €50.
After a quick shower, change and rest from a long day we set off down town for food. Bloody egg and chips with a bottle of red €15.
I have booked a night out of Santiago tomorrow night for Alan’s birthday.
After a loud night of party goers going past the hostel, we decided to get up and go. It started cloudy, then soon broke into sun with a breeze to keep us a little cooler. I were saying how well it was all marked when we couldn’t find any arrows. This happened a few times. It seemed an age going through town after town. Eventually we hit the country and come across a lovely little church dedicated to St James and pilgrims. Normally this is closed but luckily for us being a Sunday, we found it open. We sat outside listening to the parishioners singing, before going in and getting a stamp for the credential.
We had a lovely walk around the coast and saw our first otter trying to eat an eel. There were also white Egrets and stone turners on the coast. While we were walking, we heard a load of loud bangs. We found out it was a festival of some sorts.
When we arrive at the albergue, the first one we have stayed in this holiday, we had a lovely surpise. It’s like brand new, though it’s 3 years old. We were shown to a lovely dorm and so far there’s only us in it. A quick shower and we decided to go to Carral for something to eat. There is very little round the albergue. This is the extra 4 miles added on. It wasn’t very good when we arrived in the town. Plenty to do for children and music for partying but nothing for 2 old gits who just wanted something to eat. We ended up going for pizza and told we would struggle getting a taxi because of the festival. Nothing else to do except walk. With God’s intervention I saw a taxi in a garden and a man walk out. I asked in my very poor Spanish if he would take us, he agreed. Alan was gob smacked, I will make him believe yet lol.
What a loud night we had. The music and taking went on till 2.30am and we’re 3 floors up. We are having a rest day today and still done 10m. We had a good walk around the port and beaches before having a great bocadillo filled with falafel. I was exhausted by 3pm so we went to bed and I slept for 2 hours. In the evening we went for our stamp at the church of Santiago. The oldest church in A Coruna. There’s a beer festival and music in the square. Not to be missed along with a Beyond Burger and Vegan hot dog. A lovely relaxing night.
Maria gave us breakfast of tostados con tomata, before dropping us off at Betanzos. We have 15m to do today but there’s a lot of hills involved. We soon overtook about 17 pilgrims, it’s very busy today, no doubt trying to get to the only albergue that has 25 beds. We met Danny at or first stop and we had a chat before we moved on again. The walk went well and soon the miles went by. I don’t think there were many pilgrims passed us. When we arrived at our destination at 2.30 the albergue was full and we couldn’t get in. We decided to get the bus and go right to A Coruna instead of going tomorrow. We managed to get an extra night at Hostel Linar. What a huge difference. The room is small and dated. This is what you get in the cities. At least we have our own room.
I’ve recovered after having nearly 14 hours sleep and I’m ready to tackle the Camino. We were shown a route to get back on track. The hotel had painted signs on the rd just for pilgrims to follow. A great day for walking with a lovely breeze to keep us cool.
When we arrived at Nino, we met Danny, a nice 76yr old who looked 70 if that. I hope we meet again. We arrived in Betanzos to meet an English couple from……. Heaton Moore. It’s such a small world. Alan mentioned a park he’d read about O Pastempo. It was a lovely Victorian park that was ornate and statues all round. What a shame we couldn’t get in though we did try several ways. I doubt we will be here again. Once I know how to upload some photos I will add them.
I looked for the hotel we are staying at tonight. Oh no its 4 km up the hill. There must be a reason why I picked it. To add to that, it’s in the opposite direction. We were greeted at the door by the owner who told us he’d sent us a message saying he would have picked us up in Betanzos. He showed us our room that is based on Westerns. We even had a bucking bronco in our room. He has offered to take us out for tea at 8.30 for traditionally made Tortilla using her own eggs. Normally a vegan would say no but what goes on in Spain, stays in Spain. We went down for a beer, that we were told was on the house. On the wall it said they didn’t accept tips.
Our Western Room
That night we had the best Tortilla in Spain. We shared a table with our hosts, Antonio, Maria, Stefano from Italy and another couple. We had Pedron peppers, cheese, Sarano ham and Chorizo. Shame I could only eat the peppers. €23 for both of us with wine.
Its a hot windy day so it will keep us cool hopefully. I hope I’m up to it because there’s a fair bit of going up. In this weather that isn’t good. We come across the largest Magnolia tree in all Spain.
There’s quite a few people on this walk. Saying that we come across 3 pilgrims a few times.
Just before we reached Pontedeume, I started to feel ropey. We got over the bridge after doing 200m to find our hostel is another 2km away. Guess what up another big hill. Alan had to hold my bag because I was passing out and feeling like I had sun stroke. I thought we would never arrive at our hostel. My legs are also a needs due to prickly heat. I collapsed on the bed freezing Ann’s feel asleep for a couple of hours.
After pulling myself round we went down for Menu del Dia. A choice of pork or fish. I told a groaning young man we were Veganos. He pulled Padron Peppers out the bag for us, a good salad and patatas. A couple of beers for Alan and Fanta for me. All for €17. I started to faint again so we had to leave. I’m dreading tomorrow. It might have to be a bus if I feel like this.
We’re up at 4am and all ready. I have found a problem. We are struggling to find a way to Ferrol. I have Googled the pants off my phone looking for buses and trains and by the time we get to Santiago the next train will be 8pm which will make it 10.30pm before we arrive at Ferrol.
I have found another way though… Bla Bla car. This is car pooling and I’ve found us a lift. I send the £12 via PayPal and then duplicate it, so it’s going to cost £24 unless I get it back. I send the nice 18 yr old girl a message saying we are 2 pilgrims and though we have 2 big rucksacks, we will put then on our knees. (She has a Renault Clio) Result😜
We get off the plane and I receive a message… she’s cancelled on us. 🙄I’m panicking now. How the hell are we going to get there?
We trot over to the information desk and ask how we can get there? Easy “go to the bus station and a bus will take you right there at 6pm. 🤯Why couldn’t that come on my Google.🤯
The rest was plain sailing from there. We found the Hostel £31 for a private room. We then went out to find our start for the morning. Happy days🤗
It has taken over an hour to get through the traffic at tea time to pick up a hired car. We have to catch a plane from Stansted tomorrow and this way it’s cheaper. I’m hoping it works out ok this time. Back in 2015 when we did it, I booked the wrong date. Well this time I trebled checked, so here goes. 🤗
“We’ve come to pick up our car” looking chuffed with myself.😋
“Great, have you got a utility bill?”
Oops “I have one on my phone” very smugly. 😜
“Have you got a bank statement?”
Even more smugly, I have 3 accounts on my phone. “Yes”😜😜
“Sorry, I need hard copies and we close in 5 minutes”😂
So we are now driving Alan’s car to Stansted and parking up for 2 weeks. This is the last time I go to Santiago.🤯